6 Brands That Don't Get Enough Attention
Surprisingly underrated or looked over garm-suppliers that need a bit of love
Is this thing on? Apologies for the lack of posts here this past couple of weeks. Been busy turning 30 and starting a new full time gig, but now things are a little bit more of a routine, I can get back to going mad mode about menswear.
I’m a bit of a stickler for the brands I love. Outside of my well-stocked vintage clothing collection, I mostly stick to a trifecta of Satisfy (for running), Our Legacy (my obsession) and mfpen (a growing obsession). I tend to avoid the luxury end of the menswear spectrum, mainly through lack of funds, partly through a streak of hipster-like enjoyment of the more unknown or lesser-known gems.
In this avoidance of the bigger players in the clothes making space I’ve come across a few smaller makers that frankly don’t get enough of a look in, or not often enough.
So here’s a little list of menswear makers that should be in the conversation more.
By no means an unknown, AKOG is stocked in places like END, Liberty and Mr Porter, but strangely not a brand that gets as much love as some of its similar counterparts. With designs rooted in classic menswear, but with specific freaks and skews applied, AKOG feels at times like a much more considered version of Aime Leon Dore (not a comparison that they’d maybe like nowadays). The muted tones, with occasional pop of bolder colour form a very curated and tasteful collection of clothes that easily occupy a space alongside some of the brands du jour in menswear. The outerwear is roomy, textural and impactful, the knitwear is punchy but wearable, suits are supplied in loose silhouettes with often more vibey fabrication and the shirting is a foolproof run of simple essentials. Good hats too.
I once described L.E.J to a friend as if Drake’s slightly rebellious sibling. Which isn’t surprising considering Luke Walker, the brain behind the brand has spent time within Drake’s before L.E.J, which shares an element of the heritage-meets-hippy attitude. Vintage, thrashed denim are paired with a beautifully cut stripe shirt that is slouchily unbuttoned and finished with a heaping of art direction that brings the mission of ‘casual can be better’ into tangible and very desirable reality. L.E.J shockingly has sub 10k followers on instagram, but is consistently one of my most saved inspirations as the clothing is again rooted in the classics of menswear but with a dose of freakiness applied. The Plage Coat with the ‘quick release’ tie fastening is a signature style that showcases the L.E.J approach to design well, basis in an old work jacket, but eschewing tradition in favour of a compelling flair.
Another Aspect have positioned themselves as clothing very much for the everyday. Where places like OL or mfpen (the brands Scandi neighbours) make clothing that feels somewhat out there, with bold silhouette or fabric, Another Aspect go decidedly more low-key. The mission of designing timeless clothes that can work cohesively together isn’t one that’s new - places like GAP and even Arket have been tackling that corner of the menswear market for decades - where Another Aspect rises above the rest is with making their product and collections not simply a time saving exercise of ‘one-stop-shop’, but a world that’s desirable and aspirational. Along with making the occasional big hitter item that isn’t just norm core incarnate. A deep consideration into responsibly manufacturing clothes that last long and don’t adversely impact the supply chain is just the cherry on top.
Specifically not menswear, or womenswear - but just clothing cut for anyone who wants to wear it, Olderbrother can at times feel like a bit more of a grown up Story MFG. The earthy and washed colour palette that comes from natural dyeing techniques is definitely why that familiarity is so apparent, but while I love Story MFG, on occasion I question the daily wearability of it unless you buy into the whole shebang (which is great move, just not one for me personally) - Olderbrother feels like an answer to getting that same ultra-conscious and nature (often gardening) inspired clothing but in a way that feels like you can adopt into your wardrobe a piece at a time without said piece becoming the defining aesthetic. The jackets are particularly good.
There’s two things I struggle to understand with Olive. 1). How they’re able to have the pricing they do and 2). Why they’re not the brand that everyone is flocking to at the moment. It’s clear from a browse on the site that the brand is wanting to occupy a specific space in menswear at the moment - adjacent to brands like Our Legacy or Studio Nicholson - but they’re able to undercut the price point consistently without sacrificing the aesthetic side of things. Are the fabric luxury? No. But then again, neither are some of the Our Legacy knits that routinely run 3 times the price of Olive, and in hand their stuff is legitimately nice - my younger brother recently bought a couple of pieces and they’re nicely made, and better than something you’d find for a similar price in a more well-known high street brand.
Carter Young is one of those brands that I cannot help but save and share whenever they post. The clothes have a confidence and clarity of design that is incredible considering the brand is only 4 years old. Started in New York, and aiming to make clothes ‘to be worn’, Carter Young roots the design language of their clothing in classic Americana (‘Easy Rider, William Eggleston, Coca-Cola’, to quote the About Page), but don’t try to recreate the past, but rather use the established classics to carve out their place in American fashion’s future. Jackets are cut boxy (or with a sick drawstring cinched waist), denim is roomy, modernly draped but with a feel and wash of the classic Levis you’d see in those sick pictures of early 1900’s miners. The vibe is immaculate, and shocking that they are another brand that is sub 10k followers.
I'm a big Wawwa guy. Based and produced in Manchester, they make very practical gorp/streetwear/workwear oriented stuff that feels built for the British climate. Their bags especially look great.